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I recently bought a 1978 Gardner Denver 185 cfm rotary screw compressor model sphga its powered by a 300 inline 6 Ford with only 104 hours on it. It was used as a back up compressor and ran on propane. I just switch out carbs and got it runing and after playing with linkage and govenor got it runing but it will spray oil out in the air. This is my first screw compressor looking back when I was runing it. It wasnt siting perfectly level can that afect oil in air?

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Also while playing with the carb is it posible to over rev and pump to much oil seperator cant keep up? I opened the oil filter it looked new I then opened oil seperator it has a steel wool looking filter about 10' od and about 18' long soaked in oil. Im not sure were else to look or what to look for. Is it posible thers nothing wrong I just over reved it or is there somthing else to look. Any body now were to pick up a manuale for this. It has dextron atf fluide in it thats what it calls for on the tag and it takes 8 gallons theres a sight glass that show the oil level right in the middle of normal when sitting when runing it goes up some. What is a bladder?

And as far as i know this was a working unit it was in a natural gas facility were it was used if natural gas went off line they would feed homes with propane and these compressors were used to add air to the mix so you could substitut propane for natural gas. I have a filling its somthing simple that I did or a valve somthing sticking. The sight glass that I am talking about is in the lube line.

There is a flow control valve that we would have to adjust to see enough oil flowing agginst the glass, but not too much. Just guessing that if too much flowed through - the sepparator on the other end couldn't keep up.??? Bladder - not sure to tell you the truth. Just seems like there was a bladder in the sepparator area that went bad in ours? That is beyond my understanding (experience) of the system. But if you are getting oil in your air - I would think that maybe you are letting too much oil IN to the receiver, and the sepparator just kant git it all back out. Again - ours was a Joy - Twist-Air.

I would guess that yours is similar, but I don't know. The G/D's that I have worked with were Shirley MUCH older than that!

Hopefully others will have some other ideas. I am Ox and I approve this h'yah post! There will be a scavenger line that goes into the air oil separator tank. Usually around 1/4 to 3/8 inch size. If you are going to change the air oil separator make sure this line is not plugged.

If you are not getting air in oil at the start of operation but after the compressor runs for a while not under load then this line is probably stopped up. Had a 185 screw that i change the filter in and had used some teflon tape on a fitting. Was not blowing oil before change but was after change.

Opened the separator up and looked at the end of the scavenger line a little piece of that teflon tape had plugged the hole. Put it back together and it ran fine. My seperator is horzontle there are 2 little lines coming from the seperator both on the clean air side one 1/4 ish on the bottom that runs down to the screw were I cant see right know and second 3/8ish that runs over to the air intake were looks like a little regulator and then lines tee off that to throttle control and presure gage etc.

Joy Twist Air Compressor Manuals

What does the little regulator do? Is the a intake valve and is there a unloader sytem The seperator element is 10'ish od and 18'-20' long and it made up with about 2 1/2' wide rolls off what looks like fine steel wool there 8 or so rols. Does that sound right?

I dont have a part number for it all the picture I could find of seperators looked like paper filters. With the steel wool can I just wash reuse. A manual would be nice. Iv called gardner denver left mesage and email ther service but Im sure once they read the model and see 30 years old im on the bottom of ther list.

Joy Compressor Parts Manual

And for the motor this was a original gas machine when sold they cut the togune and removed axel and converted to propane I havent run it much with this problem but runs great so far. I would think that the one going to the screw is the lube line that I mentioned.

It would likely be bringing oil back to lube the screw. This is the oil that the sapparator needs to pull back out aggin. The other line going up to the intake is closing the intake valve once you git to pressure. Rotaries are not intended (as a rule) to start and stop regularly. Microsoft office 2017 for windows. They are meant for continuous use, and when they reach pressure, they just close off the incomming air and free-ride for a while. This is the same as the throttle on your cardboardmeter on the 6.

Of course - from here I am just guessing. I am Ox and I approve this h'yah post! I was blasting using the neighbors 185 I.R. With a John deere engine. As it had oodles of hours, we thought the blow thru of oil was related to high run time.

Joy Twistair Compressor Manual

And yours has 170 hours, so I would think mechancal failure isnt' the problem. There was a valve to vent the oil chamber (either to atmosphere or maybe to some process) we had to use for a couple of seconds, to eliminate the large volume of oil making it thru the seperator. It (the problem) would show up after starting, after pressure was full up, only needed to throw the valve once a session, and then things settled down nicely. We saw a lot of churning going on in that sight glass BTW, and I can't remember if that was the indication to vent something or was normal operation.

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