Leroy Somer Windlass Manual S600
I purchased my boat a few years ago knowing the windlass was not working because of the solenoid. I replaced the two-directional solenoid with an automotive solenoid which only switches on in one direction. This was a temporary fix because of the expense of the two way solenoid (near $200). Now I'm ready for my windlass to work both directions. Attached is pics of the schematic and the current solenoid and wiring.
Is it possible to utilize another automotive solenoid to make the engine run in reverse? If I'm reading the schematic correctly the Pos becomes Neg and the Neg becomes Pos to reverse the motor. Thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated. Sure no problem, you need 4 single pole solenoids. The up button controls two of them and the down button controls the other two.
For sake of discussion lets say the motor has a red lead and a black lead, and when the red lead is +12 and the black lead is grounded the up direction is selected. When the up button is pushed one solonoid connects the +12 to the red(up direction of the motor) and the other solenoid connects the black to gnd. The down direction wiring is the opposite, so when the down button is pushed a solonoid connects the black to +12 and another solenoid connects the red of the motor to GND causing it to run backwards. Oh and by the way don't press up and down at the same time, you will short the battery to GND.
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Hmm $200 isn't looking so bad. Simply put- if the windlass motor has 3 leads, then one is common and the other two operate the motor in forward or reverse depending upon which of the two wires is energized. If the windlass motor has 2 leads, then the 12V power is applied in one polarity for forward and the opposite polarity for reverse. These two configurations use different reversing solenoids to accomplish the correct switching. I think the 2-wire motor does use a more expensive solenoid than the 3-wire motor. Your posted wiring diagram shows a 3-wire motor, but you said that there are only 2 wires on the motor. If both of these are true then your wiring diagram does not match what you actually have on your boat.
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I hate pictorial wiring diagrams. I was confused/mistaken- I thought that the pictorial of the remote control was actually the motor. If I had read the labels on the pictures I would not have misunderstood. So you have a motor that has two cables. That means that the solenoid must reverse the polarity of the battery to operate the motor in both directions. You cannot just add one more auto solenoid because you need to switch both motor cables to each battery terminal. You would need FOUR single pole solenoids to accomplish this task.
Just buy the $200 double-pole, double-throw, center-off solenoid and be done with it. (Imagine- this advice coming from me who will jump through hoops to save 25 cents.).
In my application - davits - I replicated what was there originally. Davits are hardly continuous duty, usually 15 seconds or less each way. In my search this was also the only solution I found.
A windlass is hardly a continuous duty item itself. I do not think a windlass contactor can be purchased off the shelf for a 2 wire motor - at least I haven't seen any. Any windlass I have seen uses a 3 wire motor and contactors for those are common. It is also easy to create one with 2 single pole solenoids. What is your solution? If the motor only has two studs (a permanent magnet motor) the cheaper reversing solenoid will work and can be bought on eBay for und 25 dollars. 12 Volt DC Reversing Solenoid Intermittent Duty 24450 12 Volt DC Reversing Solenoid 'Used for permanent magnet motors Only' Such as winches,Hoist Any Reversible permanent magnet motor.
No need to use the (4) SPST Relays or the (2) SPDT Relays with this New Reversing Solenoid. Voltage: 12V DC.
Max operating voltage 14.5V DC. DPDT intermittent duty. Contacts: Copper Flat Base type bracket Large studs: 5/16' -24 Coil terminals: two blades Coil type: common ground Two integral solenoids provide dynamic braking for permanent magnet motors when neither coil is energized. 12V DC 75A make and break, max On time 5min.
12V DC 125A make and break, max On time 30sec. 12V DC 150A make and break, max On time 0.5sec. Allow 5min Off after max On time. Use with a SPDT momentary toggle or rocker switch: Toggle Switch (such as).We Suggest That You Use Circuit Protection For The Main Battery Feed To The Relay.And For the Relay Coil Activation Circuits.
I have a Leroy Somer windlass on my Oceanis 411 (2001). I am not sure of the model but it has both the chain and rope gipsy on the same side next to each other. The chain gypsy is locked onto the drive shaft by two cone-shaped discs, one on each side and this is compressed by the rope gypsy which is threaded onto the drive shaft and has holes in it to allow the rope gypsy to be tensioned-on using a pipe lever. The two cone-shaped discs then grip the chain gypsy and away you go. However, I think the cone-shaped disks have worn down and the chain gypsy now slips no matter how hard I tension the rope gypsy because the side of the rope gypsy comes into contact with the side of the chain gypsy before enough pressure is put on the cones to lock the chain gypsy.
I haven't had much success at finding spare parts for this windlass on the Web. Two questions, has anyone found a spares supplier in the UK for a Leroy Somer windlass and secondly has anyone had the same problem and solved it? I am thinking that if I put a thick washer between the rope gypsy and the cone-shaped disk to act as a spacer this would allow me to get tension onto the disks and grip the chain gypsy.any thoughts please? I have a Leroy Somer windlass on my Oceanis 411 (2001). I am not sure of the model but it has both the chain and rope gipsy on the same side next to each other. The chain gypsy is locked onto the drive shaft by two cone-shaped discs, one on each side and this is compressed by the rope gypsy which is threaded onto the drive shaft and has holes in it to allow the rope gypsy to be tensioned-on using a pipe lever.
The two cone-shaped discs then grip the chain gypsy and away you go. However, I think the cone-shaped disks have worn down and the chain gypsy now slips no matter how hard I tension the rope gypsy because the side of the rope gypsy comes into contact with the side of the chain gypsy before enough pressure is put on the cones to lock the chain gypsy. I haven't had much success at finding spare parts for this windlass on the Web. Two questions, has anyone found a spares supplier in the UK for a Leroy Somer windlass and secondly has anyone had the same problem and solved it? I am thinking that if I put a thick washer between the rope gypsy and the cone-shaped disk to act as a spacer this would allow me to get tension onto the disks and grip the chain gypsy.any thoughts please?As I was intrigued. From another place 'After posting this query I tracked down LC Kittow who offer full support for LS windlasses. Kittow were able to supply an 8 mm gypsy to replace my existing 10mm and assured me that LS windlasses are fully servicable with spares available.
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As described earlier in this strand the clutch is a very simple conical face arrangement and there does not appear to be any form of manual back up if the electrics fail. L C Kittow Ltd Address: 34 Spear Road, Southampton, SO14 6UH, UK ' Whomesofailing - you have to either put a 'shim' in to get it to tighten up again - or, get new cones turned up at your local machine shop. Hope that helps. Had a similar problem on my 393. Managed to solve it by removing the outer cheek (the one that isn't held on to the axle by an allen screw) and grinding away about an eighth of an inch of the inner surface (not the cheek itself but the flat surface around the square hole for the axle).This allowed the two cheeks to tighten up as previously no amount of tightening would allow the cheeks to engage on the gypsy, as the two inner flat surfaces of the cheeks around the axle were meeting (in other words the two cheeks were binding against one another and not on the concave surfaces of the gypsy). Hope this makes sense! No doubt the better solution is to get new cheeks!
As I was intrigued. From another place 'After posting this query I tracked down LC Kittow who offer full support for LS windlasses. Kittow were able to supply an 8 mm gypsy to replace my existing 10mm and assured me that LS windlasses are fully servicable with spares available. As described earlier in this strand the clutch is a very simple conical face arrangement and there does not appear to be any form of manual back up if the electrics fail. L C Kittow Ltd Address: 34 Spear Road, Southampton, SO14 6UH, UK ' Whomesofailing - you have to either put a 'shim' in to get it to tighten up again - or, get new cones turned up at your local machine shop. Hope that helps.Duncanmack many thanks for the Kittow Ltd contact details.good to know I've got a supplier in the UK if I have to get my wallet out.
Oceanis, I have just reread your origional - not sure your problem is the same as mine as you state the rope gypsy is tightening on the chain gypsy before pressure is put on the cones. Are you sure this is the case -if so a shim or washer should solve the problem. There is a lengthy thred on the UK Beneteau Owners Assoc.
Tehnical forum complete with photos. Nickf, having read your post regarding the two cones touching before they have gripped the chain gypsy, you have given me another angle I hadn't thought about and I'm now not so sure which is the case. It certainly looked as though the rope gypsy was coming into contact with the chain gypsy but.if that was the case then why would the chain gypsy slip so easily.I think you might well have a point and I need to take another look. I'm not going to get down to the boat for a week or two because SWMBO has a list of jobs for me to do at home. As soon as I've had a chance to take another look at the windlass I'll post an update on further investigation of the cause/fix for a slipping chain gypsy.
Many thanks.John.I had a similar sort of issue with my old Simpson Lawrence windlass. The only solution was to dismount the windlass, drag it home and strip it down in a nice warm back bedroom. No freezing hands, rain or other issues;-) SWMBO was not too concerned if I vanished inside the house for the odd hour or 3.
I had a similar sort of issue with my old Simpson Lawrence windlass. The only solution was to dismount the windlass, drag it home and strip it down in a nice warm back bedroom. No freezing hands, rain or other issues;-) SWMBO was not too concerned if I vanished inside the house for the odd hour or 3. GraemeGood thinking but if I plan this carefully, I could get a weekend pass to Swanwick to work on the boat and peace and quiet to watch the first games of the RBS 6 Nations with a pint or two thrown in.bliss.